Op Paperart


droneb

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Aug 28, 2009
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hey pp i love making paper models of stuff (got my own PC replicated on cardboard and paper)

i would like to know if there is any CAD files or alikes that i could use to design the paperworks.
an example of it would be:
howl_paper_model2.jpg
 
There is this model done in blender by a fan ;)
It's 3d, dimensions are not right and it isn't 100% like the real one.. Anyway, it should give you something to try out :p

Page: Here
 
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like this?
2w653xc.jpg


here is the link to that page, and i think he/she posted a file to make your own.
http://forum.gp2x.de/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=6913


of course, craig made one too :lol:
2vto3z6.jpg
 
We'd love to see a Paperdora! Don't forget to make the logo just right. If you're really (REALLY!!) good with paper and have some skill with electronics, you could pop in a couple LEDs to make the logo/scree/[sup]w[/sup]/[sub]e[/sub] you have in mind glow. You would need to use strips of cardboard to prevent the light from bleeding into the rest of the model.
 
Jourdy288 said:
We'd love to see a Paperdora! Don't forget to make the logo just right. If you're really (REALLY!!) good with paper and have some skill with electronics, you could pop in a couple LEDs to make the logo/scree/[sup]w[/sup]/[sub]e[/sub] you have in mind glow. You would need to use strips of cardboard to prevent the light from bleeding into the rest of the model.

lucky thing i have some skills in Elt plus a lil mc ill get a feel a Paperdora with open the box amusement

(nice idea to add the Led Stuff) i did it with my paper PC as a didactical model
 
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There is actually Japanese software that can create the paper cut-out patterns for you if you have a 3D model of what you want. It's called Pepakura Designer, which you can find here: http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/

It's neat software, but it does have some limitations. Namely, it won't always create perfect cut-outs for you (especially in tight corners with a lot of rounded edges).

Funny you mentioned papercraft. I was just thinking that would be a great idea a few hours ago. :lol:
 
thats the one im using though i have to fix the 3d model for it to actually work

plus i usually make up some dinamic movement pieces so a explosion 3d model usually fits the best
 
:S does anyone knows if it is possible to change 3D models in blender to CAD or 3D Max Studio files?

of if theres any .CAD or .3DS files?
 
DroneB Dev said:
:S does anyone knows if it is possible to change 3D models in blender to CAD or 3D Max Studio files?

of if theres any .CAD or .3DS files?


However, you really shouldn't do that. Blender files are generally much easier to work with.
 
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Well, the issue is that the unfolding program doesnt support .blend files
 
I made one from the nets from gp2x.de. With two toothpicks glued together it has a working hinge, although the square edges get crushed in a little bit every time you open or close it.
352oi80.jpg


I can't figure out why the top half printed out with that nice even shade of blue-gray instead of black, and don't want to use any more precious ink on troubleshooting.
 
im afraid the .Blend file was way more too complex for me, so ill use the oldie technike of the squared paper model design.

ill make the nubs and power switch move(able) so it will take a while.

since it will be made by hand i dont expect it to be the same size, but at least the closest rate (to the 5mm+-1mm).

could someone post up links or pics to the inner parts on the Highest res possible?. (please not VIDEOS)
i need em for Mapping the structure. (and yes the model will include the inner Board and battery, stylus)
i love modeling the Most important parts too like the all mighty OMAP3 the audio Jack and the SD slots

oh i forgot the back ports the TV out USB and Power Jack.

Edit: i found a video at 1080i, nice view of the board yet i still need a hig res image of it both sides.
 
DroneB Dev said:
im afraid the .Blend file was way more too complex for me, so ill use the oldie technike of the squared paper model design.

ill make the nubs and power switch move(able) so it will take a while.

since it will be made by hand i dont expect it to be the same size, but at least the closest rate (to the 5mm+-1mm).

could someone post up links or pics to the inner parts on the Highest res possible?. (please not VIDEOS)
i need em for Mapping the structure. (and yes the model will include the inner Board and battery, stylus)
i love modeling the Most important parts too like the all mighty OMAP3 the audio Jack and the SD slots

oh i forgot the back ports the TV out USB and Power Jack.

Edit: i found a video at 1080i, nice view of the board yet i still need a hig res image of it both sides.

try looking at the column on the right on the unofficial blog.
http://openpandora.wordpress.com/

pics are at photo album and videos are at video vault.
besides the render files, pictures and videos, that's pretty much all there is.
 
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I have been trying to make a very simple model while maintaining some basic details. I couldn't go any further than this or the program goes wild . I tried to add just 3 buttons but it's no use.. My guess is that we need to model it in some special way so that the program unfolds it correctly..

Good luck, I'm looking forward to see your work :)

pepakura1.jpg
 
nikkopt said:
I have been trying to make a very simple model while maintaining some basic details. I couldn't go any further than this or the program goes wild . I tried to add just 3 buttons but it's no use.. My guess is that we need to model it in some special way so that the program unfolds it correctly..
I've seen Pepakura unfold WAY more complicated models than this. Aren't there Pepakura tutorials that tell you how to do complex models?
 
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pepakura is an app that should only use Papercraft specific 3d models for better performance.

due that the .blend model had 11K faces its nuts to unforld that

i tryed to make a simpler model from the .blend one, but since im useless at Blender, i decided to work the old school way. (sometimes works much more better for squareish models than the pepakura soft itself).

@nikkopt

from what i see the issue youve got is that the model is over split, it makes the model look better, but makes unfolding a pain.

plus i see som Edgy pieces on the top side of the unfolded model i believe it is cuz the side got split into several faces (usually happens when the piece gets built or crossed with extra nodes.

it should be easily fix by removing the nodes (without removing the line).

@withe Bat.

thanks for the nfo, but i didnt find any good quality img to use as a wrapper map :(



GREAT nice pics of the boards have been relesed

http://www.gp32x.de/board/index.php?/topic/48272-mould-creation-time/page__st__180
 
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Wow i didnt know of MWestons Image gallery,

this jewel
MWeston_2007
will make things a lot easier
 
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