You guys are forgetting that the GP32 didn't have any 2d accelarator at all.
The 2d accelarator will make emulating faster so we don't need all the processor clocking.
that means that we will get our 100% emulation with sound, and battery life to go with it.
Either I am the only one or everyone is too scared of being flamed for blaspheming against the God of Handhelds......but......
The joystick is not centrally placed in relation to the hole in the casing. It is slightly offset to the left. If the plastic pad is fully engaged (pressed down) on the joystick shaft it is prevented by the casing from registering left.
Since the joystick functions as a button the likelihood of it being pressed down is high. This is not a major problem in my opinion. A lot of people are already considering replacing the pad. GPH could issue a replacement with a slightly longer stem or you could just stick something up the hole to prevent it from being pressed down so far on the shaft.
Just looked very closely at mine; it's slap bang in the middle :huh: Perhaps yours needs its innards rejiggin'?
Just looked very closely at mine; it's slap bang in the middle :huh: Perhaps yours needs its innards rejiggin'?
Thanks for the response. At least that means it is just an assembly problem not a design issue. On the bright side it throws light on the 'joystick' rumour and effectively lays that one to rest. Another minor niggle blown out of proportion. Perhaps just loosening the screws will allow the required adjustment - don't want to send it back for something like this. (Don't want to void my warranty either though).
The 'rotating the joystick' fix appears to work by levering the pad up the shaft. This is all very well until you use the button functionality and it gets pushed back down. The best solution is going to be if your suggestion is possible.
Thanks for the response. At least that means it is just an assembly problem not a design issue. On the bright side it throws light on the 'joystick' rumour and effectively lays that one to rest. Another minor niggle blown out of proportion. Perhaps just loosening the screws will allow the required adjustment - don't want to send it back for something like this. (Don't want to void my warranty either though).
The 'rotating the joystick' fix appears to work by levering the pad up the shaft. This is all very well until you use the button functionality and it gets pushed back down. The best solution is going to be if your suggestion is possible.
Do you watch many Bollywood movies? Because normal movies usually aren't much longer than 3 hours.
The joystick pad - plastic part - just slides on and off a metal shaft, not a screw thread in sight. Problem is it can slide too far down the shaft and then catches on the case before activating the switch.The joystick is on a screw, it shouldn't get pushed back in when pressing it (mine doesn't)
try rotating it in the other direction, see if that does anything
digitaljez is right, I 'unscrewed' my joystick right the way off, to find there's no thread on the metal shaft beneath. The thumb piece just slips on and off, but its tight which is why rotating it makes it easier to loosen. If it really was sitting too low and causing problems, you could easily take off the stick and put something inside the slot for the shaft to lengthen it out a bit.Thanks for the response. At least that means it is just an assembly problem not a design issue. On the bright side it throws light on the 'joystick' rumour and effectively lays that one to rest. Another minor niggle blown out of proportion. Perhaps just loosening the screws will allow the required adjustment - don't want to send it back for something like this. (Don't want to void my warranty either though).
The 'rotating the joystick' fix appears to work by levering the pad up the shaft. This is all very well until you use the button functionality and it gets pushed back down. The best solution is going to be if your suggestion is possible.
The joystick is on a screw, it shouldn't get pushed back in when pressing it (mine doesn't)
try rotating it in the other direction, see if that does anything
The firmware is going to make it so that when you are in menus or don't need full speed it will use less power by slowing down to less than 200 MHz. This will help for some stuff. Unfortunately when you are doing stuff that *NEEDS* full power like SNES, Megadrive, NeoGeo emulation, Quake etc the battery life will still be poor because both CPU cores will be running full power.
Firmware won't be a fix-all, it will only help in some situations. For CPU intensive stuff like emulation the battery life on GP2X will make the Game Gear look good. Maybe we could hack it to use 4AA batteries, 2 in parallel for increased power.
The firmware is going to make it so that when you are in menus or don't need full speed it will use less power by slowing down to less than 200 MHz. This will help for some stuff. Unfortunately when you are doing stuff that *NEEDS* full power like SNES, Megadrive, NeoGeo emulation, Quake etc the battery life will still be poor because both CPU cores will be running full power.
Firmware won't be a fix-all, it will only help in some situations. For CPU intensive stuff like emulation the battery life on GP2X will make the Game Gear look good. Maybe we could hack it to use 4AA batteries, 2 in parallel for increased power.
yea, i am confused about this. I assume that Video decoding uses most of the cpu power on the system? So, why the low numbers on watching videos (their original numbers had stated times for watching videos).
or.. is decoding high res avis and scaling down to a small resolution an operation that only takes 30% of the Gp2x's cpu power? (I know my desktop has trouble keeping up some times).
EDIT: this is not to say that it wont get better, but i would like some clarification as to how intensive video decoding is on this thing..
The 'rotating the joystick' fix appears to work by levering the pad up the shaft. This is all very well until you use the button functionality and it gets pushed back down
Rather than trying anything too drastic I have opted to roll up a RIZLA+ (green) into a tight roll, insert it into the hole in the pad, cut half the length that fits in the hole from the RIZLA+ and ram it down the hole. Problem solved.