Pics From Mweston: Silk Screen Design


quartercast said:
Isn't USB backwards compatible?
Normally, the USB port is hooked up to the 2.0 controller, which can hand the connection over to a 1.0/1.1 controller if a slow connection is detected. (Someone more knowledgeable correct me if I got it wrong.)

In the case of the Pandora, one of the ports (the regular sized one) has a 2.0 controller but no 1.0/1.1 contoller and the other (the OTG port) has a 1.0/1.1 controller but no 2.0 controller. Thus, the regular-sized port can't handle slow devices like mice; you'll have to use the OTG port and an adapter. Luckily, micro-to-regular USB adapters are cheap.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
j6cubic said:
quartercast said:
Isn't USB backwards compatible?
Normally, the USB port is hooked up to the 2.0 controller, which can hand the connection over to a 1.0/1.1 controller if a slow connection is detected. (Someone more knowledgeable correct me if I got it wrong.)

In the case of the Pandora, one of the ports (the regular sized one) has a 2.0 controller but no 1.0/1.1 contoller and the other (the OTG port) has a 1.0/1.1 controller but no 2.0 controller. Thus, the regular-sized port can't handle slow devices like mice; you'll have to use the OTG port and an adapter. Luckily, micro-to-regular USB adapters are cheap.

Not to try and change the topic of the thread but I do think that the extra chips would've been worthwhile in having just to avoid the confusion and having to possibly use adaptors (which I always avoid where I can). Although I'm sure there was a good reason for this.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
j6cubic said:
In the case of the Pandora, one of the ports (the regular sized one) has a 2.0 controller but no 1.0/1.1 contoller and the other (the OTG port) has a 1.0/1.1 controller but no 2.0 controller.
Almost right.
The wiki says the OTG port does 2.0 as well though.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Aninhumer said:
j6cubic said:
In the case of the Pandora, one of the ports (the regular sized one) has a 2.0 controller but no 1.0/1.1 contoller and the other (the OTG port) has a 1.0/1.1 controller but no 2.0 controller.
Almost right.
The wiki says the OTG port does 2.0 as well though.
Yes. But it can only provide 100mA, while the HS port can provide up to 500mA.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
TJSomething said:
I redid mine with a bunch of different fonts... so yeah.
Pandora-Logo-Proof.png

How about Rockwell too?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Kagato said:
Here's another idea for the first batch printing:
2n71ra1.jpg

(No, those aren't the Pandora dev signatures. A No-Prize to whoever guesses them...)


Man, you are a genius o.o
Those signatures on the back are classy.
And style.




And sexy.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Dead1nside said:
Not to try and change the topic of the thread but I do think that the extra chips would've been worthwhile in having just to avoid the confusion and having to possibly use adaptors (which I always avoid where I can). Although I'm sure there was a good reason for this.
you think they didn't think of that? That they just said "bah, we don't need 1.0" and ignored the problem? There was a lot of discussion about it, a lot of details many many many moon ago, and basically they couldn't add the extra functionality. I forget why, but it really did become way more trouble than it was worth.

alternate snarky response:
My God, that's brilliant! To get the functionality, just add it! Where were you last year when the discussion came up the first time. People were asking "how can we make it work with USB 1.0?" and no one had any ideas. Just add the chip! It's so blindingly simple I can't believe no one thought of that, and certainly didn't research it enough to realize just how difficult it actually would have been to implement.

Bonus snarky response:
Duh! that's what the search feature is for.

(Yeah, I'm not funny, no matter how hard I try. Sorry)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
+1 for the signatures, very pretty...I also like "First Batch", but putting it on the bottom, or at least not in plain view where people who don't get the joke have to stare at it forever. And I don't like anything to do with "Two Months", I think we've all had enough of that, IMO.

OTOH, if any of this keeps Pandora from coming home for Christmas 2009, then don't do it. :)
 
Kagato said:
rokdcasbah said:
for instance the "HS 2.0" is unnecessary since a person is not going to be looking at a Pandora on a shelf and buy it based on what it says under the USB port. What I meant to say is that is not the right place to advertise specs.
Spec advertising isn't the reason for listing the details. If it was a truly general-purpose USB port, I'd just use the logo; but the full-size port is only USB 2.0, and doesn't (directly) support USB 1.1 devices. OTG ports also have differing features to standard USB. I think the extra labelling is warranted. (I'm not so sure about "HS", however, as I think USB 2.0 only covers that.)

rokdcasbah said:
(Image)
Here's what I was referring to before. The DC specs are going to be on the back anyway I'm assuming. [...] No need to repeat things. Simple as possible, but no simpler :)
It is common practice to list the accepted power inputs next to the connector. And by labelling the USB ports identically, you imply that they have exactly the same functionality, which isn't that case. You've gone too simple, in my opinion :)


Here's another idea for the first batch printing:
2n71ra1.jpg

(No, those aren't the Pandora dev signatures. A No-Prize to whoever guesses them...)
sexy, do want.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sigs are cool, screams limited addition also. I would just be scared that they would get scraped and faded being on the bottom. Someone else mentioned this, sorry can't remember who to quote. But can't think of where else they could go and look that good, wouldn't be too sure about having them on the top cover.
 
I prefer the signatures. I think maybe put them on the inside of the battery cover? That way they won't rub off, but still be there for the specialness while the unit remains at a stock look.
 
Here's another idea for the first batch printing:
2n71ra1.jpg

(No, those aren't the Pandora dev signatures. A No-Prize to whoever guesses them...)

That's the best idea I've heard so far. Forget about the little picture on the console to indicate it's for the select few who have waited this thing out, put the signatures on it for this limited release! That would be so awesome!
 
Na-Noo said:
Sigs are cool, screams limited addition also. I would just be scared that they would get scraped and faded being on the bottom. Someone else mentioned this, sorry can't remember who to quote. But can't think of where else they could go and look that good, wouldn't be too sure about having them on the top cover.

Do what the Amiga 1000 crew did, and emboss them on the inside of the case :p

Actually, that could probably be do-able on the battery cover.

D.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Interesting comments, like the signatures and the variation of fonts for #1 in panda logo, the amiga 1000 embossing is also good - or could we go with a holgraphic sticker or something else

embossing battery cover may cost a bit more - its taken so long for case as it is
 
Dunny said:
Do what the Amiga 1000 crew did, and emboss them on the inside of the case :p

Actually, that could probably be do-able on the battery cover.
I'm pretty sure it's well beyond too-late for that. Embossing the plastic would require changing the mould.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
@rokdcasbah

yes, most of the people doesnt buy a gadget by looking what signs are over it,
but it plays more against "play dumb people" (since theres no actual dumb proof stuff)

i say this because if someone try to plug a Mac Laptop Charger on the USB port well (ive seen it backwards a USB Dongle on the Charger Port and it busted the board and the Dongle), either they could say a lot of stuff about OP and the OP Team or maybe sue them and kill the project (it sounds like starbucks and...)

anyway this acts as an insurance, and also most of the time the product is away from the manual (that it seems a lil amount of people reads) so if you bought the Panda on the future "As It Is" on ebay o somewhere else and no charger included, what would you do if no where else "not even on internet and not knowing it is PSP charger compatible" (something we hope never to happen) you could gather the info on how to charge it by just watching the back panel, also you dont want dumb people making their pandas go kabboum (alike the dell just not because of the batts but from a wrong charger and different rating).
 
Back
Top