[Solved] TV-OUT garbled? Settings? Ideas?


jottt

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Cheers Pandorians!

Currently I am testing to integrate my Pandora in my car and I got pretty far, but now I have issues displaying the picture.

This is a Pandora 1GHz with a self-built-cable.

Cable and Pandora work fine when attached to my TV, so I am pretty sure, it's a setup thing.

The Display in the car needs NTSC Composite...I have no more information other than that. This input is usually for a rear view camera and works fine with cameras everywhere else.

When I attach the Pandora I get various "broken" screens. This depends on the values I enter for offset and size of the overscan. However I cannot seem to find a value that works. 

If I max out the values I get a black screen with few fragments of grey

If I reduce the size, I have either flickering, grey bars somewhere in the pictures or a screen thats been moved too far down or left (and wraps around).

Usually also the colours are greyish and washed out. Sometimes they match but if I press "write" again (same settings) they are gone. 

Anyone here with settings for me that could work or a hint how to work out such a setting? Thanks!
 
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Hồng Thất Công

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If the TV in car your is PAL, make sure you select PAL as well in Pandora TV Config.  Also make sure to select composite and Main Layer (but when play games you have to use Hardware Scaler).  I have several headrest monitors and they all work fine.  Have you also try hooking up a dvd player to see if it works first before hooking up the pandora?
 
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jottt

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If the TV in car your is PAL, make sure you select PAL as well in Pandora TV Config.  Also make sure to select composite and Main Layer (but when play games you have to use Hardware Scaler).  I have several headrest monitors and they all work fine.  Have you also try hooking up a dvd player to see if it works first before hooking up the pandora?
No PAL, Just NTSC. Composite & Mainlayer chosen. Unfortunately I don't have anything else that produces a composite signal and is portable. I try to find some camera but I don't think this will cause any issues, as all the non-tinkerers do not have any...but they don't have a Pandora ;)
 

jottt

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I found the issue:

When testing the Pandora it was only connected to the videocable (running on battery). It seems that the ground of the video is separated. When I attached either USB-Power or the audiocable, the video made a jump to where it should be in full color.

I found out while testing with a Raspberry that worked well in an instant ;)

Now I still have to finetune the video as it looks a bit blurry (compared to the video of the Raspberry) and it seems that connecting the power to the pandora disturbs the video (it starts to get a bit snowy). Any hints on that? I need constant power. Battery is not an option.

Toyota Prius 2 running on Pandora (with Rockbox) ;)

IMAG0277.jpg
 
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EvilDragon

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What AC Adaptor are you using? The current ones should be fine, but I know Craig sourced some cheap chinese ones (they look like PSP ripoffs) for a few hundred units because the original manufacturer didn't reply - and these were horrible.
 

jottt

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At the moment I am running on a cigarette plug 12V->USB-Adapter as the Prius unfortunately only provides 12V, 200V and 500V (and I would have to tap into the engine for the latter two)

This *should* change in the future to something, that takes 12V and provides "clean" 5V to the powerinlet of the Pandora, so to be able to boot without a battery.

I might just hook up my USB-Adapter to a fitting jack as it can provide up to 2A, provided it won't cause any disturbances.

I think that the screen issues might be connected to charging, because the short time before the charging light switches on, there is no problem and also the (few) times the pandora does not recognise the USB power (seems to happen when you quickly replug for 2 or 3 times), there is also no issue.

Once again, now in daylight:

IMG_0077.JPG

Whats best on a Pandora? Retro music of course.

IMG_0078.JPG

Aaand the proof that indeed it is a Pandora ;)
 
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jottt

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Absolutely! This bugs me as well. Unfortunately I have not yet found any solution that does not cost more than € 300, which is a bit steep for a bit of nice-to-have and I am not able to work out myself how to get the neccessary signals out of the IEbus and into an HID. I'm a tinkerer but thats it. This takes a lot more, I guess.

My knowledge ends with tapping the display and rewiring some stuff so the car thinks it has a rear camera and switches the "camera" on and of whenever I like. ;)
 
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