Stripped Screw


I *think* the wifi antenna's on the other side. The antenna socket is on the right side of the board (left on the underside), then goes through the hinge so I think the other end of it is on the left.
 
Nope, it's not. 

wires.jpg

But if you didn't drill too deep, you should be fine.
 
Phew.

That was close then. :eek:

And that tab went back in. Yay! :)

Oh, how do I take apart the screen?

Getting the four screws on the front side off didn't do anything.
 
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The Pyra is addressing this, but for the Pandora you have to dismantle everything, starting with the bottom half, then carefully wedging open the bottom of the screen portion to fit a thin screwdriver or similar into the channel and gently tap out the hinge. Once the hinge is out you can very carefully remove the ribbon cable, and then pop the tabs on the rest of it.

It's a pain in the butt and if you don't need to get into the screen section I'd avoid it but if you really must then you must. If you decide to order some spare parts, add a ribbon cable to your basket as well, you may not quite put it in correctly and over 3 or 4 months it might wear out.
 
Ah yeah, I forgot about the slightly weird loop the wifi antenna does in the hinge area.  Right hand side it is.

You don't actually need to get into the bottom half to get the screen bezel out.  The first step is to disengage the five tabs after taking the screws out, which should leave the screen bezel only held in by one side of the hinge.  It's just a matter of working the connection and sliding the bezel out from the hinge.  To get the back of the lid out you need to pop the hinge mechanism into the base of the unit, so for that purpose you'd better get into the bottom and remove the light pipes on that side, the board (which means disconnecting the wifi antenna and the LCD cable too), and the microphone holder, as it can take a bit of force to get that hinge widget out and it'd definitely take out the microphone on its way through if you didn't.

So it's really only the screen bezel you can get out without disassembling most of the rest of it, and AFAIK you can't get it (or a new one) back in without disassembling the hinge, so disassembling the base.

Anywhere, here's ED's epic disassembly vid (talking about replacing the LCD cable, but it's mostly the same if you just want to replace the upper plastics - just don't cut the LCD cable).  I'd recommend watching it at least a couple of times until you've got it all down pat:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8GfjAsbmK8
 
Thanks!
Turns out I don't need to actually take out the screen (and I'm just going to leave the frame as it is.)

But good to know in case I do ever need to.
 
The copper wires didn't want to conduct the heat, so I was just going to solder on the component to copper wires that I soldered in. :p

The shoulder button for some reason doesn't want to be soldered on either, and neither does the DC plug...

And in the process of swapping the keyboard casing for a new one, I accidentally ripped the LCD cable and the LCD cable is unselectable in the replacement parts.

What do I do about that part?

Edit: Accidentally responded to the wrong thread...

How do I delete this?
 
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