Easy Overclocking


This phenomenon of previously lower speed, unmodified GPs suddenly clocking higher after the pencil trick is definately a result of physical contact with the resistors by a hard object (in this case the tip of the pencil). These resistors are like sandwiches (tuckers for you mates Down Under). By writing on them, we are essentially compressing the resistor which in turn is changing its resistance value.

As for running stable or not, you should consider that NiMH 1800-2800 is good, but Alkalines are better at providing a stable voltage, and a wall adapter is best. Also, when it comes to recargeables, the quality varies widely even if you only use one brand. Remember, these things start wearing out as soon as you start using them.

You may all be interested in knowing that my GP32 (the oldest living pencil tricked unit) is still clocking stable at 204Mhz and has not decreased even surviving several potentialy disasterous drops (Yikes!)
 
cool thanks for the explanation... so I'm not crazy :D

I've been seriously considering giving the pencil trick another go... I really want my 184mhz back for mame and snes....
 
cool thanks for the explanation... so I'm not crazy :D

I've been seriously considering giving the pencil trick another go... I really want my 184mhz back for mame and snes....

I have just done it and can highly recommend it

my 156 gp can now get to 218
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just did that pencil trick on my NLU GP32, which was limited to 166 Mhz (168 did crash instantly):
Now I can go up to 220 Mhz ! And my GP32 does not seem to be very hot ...
 
albator posted on Aug 5 2005 at 06:20 PM said:
Just did that pencil trick on my NLU GP32, which was limited to 166 Mhz (168 did crash instantly):
Now I can go up to 220 Mhz ! And my GP32 does not seem to be very hot ...

my gp does around 220-200 if i done the pencil trick it would be megga fast? and suggestions how fast?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
this might be interesting;
preparing to mod my new gp32 blu, i took some measurements from my nlu (does 256mhz, but sadly the lcd broke..) and blu (166) the other day (or was it night?)
and well, the difference is just 0.01V
nlu (256mhz): 1.79V
blu (166mhz): 1.78V

ps: the nlu ran unstable at 256mhz, meaning it did just fine in mirko's clockspeed-tester, but screwed up in gpquake and os9xgp (gone a bit over 180 in those)
anyways, my blu does 166 in the clocktester and gpcinema, didnt try any others yet

edit: just to clarify this, i want to replace the resistors, not the pnecil trick :p
 
Just did that pencil trick overclock my gp32 and it stadle @ 240mh cool or what

bin playing it all day and loving it

might bin the ds now
 
I've been holding out on this pencil trick because I'm nervous about damaging my lovely GP32. I'm actually waiting for f-day to see if fGen will be faster than DrMD. If it isn't, I will probably do the pencil trick if it is definitely safe and stable. Any idea when f-day will be?
 
Hi trooper,
trooper posted on Apr 19 2005 at 04:50 PM said:
Well, Another update.

As i`m a gluten for punishment, I`ve put some more pencil on the r52 resistor, But the first time i powered on i got the blank screen with power light showing red etc. So, I switched off, Took the back of again, But this time i applied the pencil to the r48 resistor aswell (don`t ask me why :rolleyes:). Anyway, I chucked the back back on, Powered up and she worked all the way up to 220mhz, Which i found out is the limit she will go before resetting (224mhz is a no no for me). Even then, Simply pull out the adaptor or batteries, Wait about ten seconds, Chuck the power back on (batteries or adaptor) and she`s good to go again.

So now i have a Blu that goes 172mhz and a Blu that goes 220mhz, Sweet :D .

Btw: There is an noticeable improvement in speed (I still haven`t tried snes above 166mhz yet, Which is the limit in osnes9xgp :( ) in mame, But still at fs2 and not full speed in a lot of games, But they are more playable.

EDIT: Just for the record, The pencil i am using i a cheap multi-coloured no name one, So i haven`t even got a clue if it is a No2 or not. :rolleyes:

Trooper

Did you let Graphite on both resistor R48 and R52 because with my NLU, it only work this way (and it rocks), if i put graphite only on R48 i only have a blank screen.

Does your GP is still working?? (say yes please!!)

Does anybody now what should i have mesure between this 2 resistors?

Bye

Herc. :ph34r:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I was only able to get it working with graphite on both resistors.
 
bast525 posted on Aug 9 2005 at 12:08 PM said:
I was only able to get it working with graphite on both resistors.

How long ago did you done this trick?

Bye

Herc. :ph34r:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
long time ago, but unlike most people here, I ended up putting it back to normal/removing the graphite after a while... mine is apparently much more picky or fickle, as three times I did the mod and it would stably go to 180+ mhz, but after a few days/a week, it would stop being stable. Seems to me a lot of the guys who pitched in on this thread have had theirs running fine for months now...
 
Yep!, My steroid induced GP is still going strong and clocking 200mhz fine in DrMD without any problems at all. The other GP Blu hardly gets any play time at all now. :rolleyes:

Thunderforce IV @ 200mhz is silky smooth on the GP, Kicks the ass of PSPGenesis running Thunderforce IV @ 333mhz on the PSP. :D

Trooper
 
This phenomenon of previously lower speed, unmodified GPs suddenly clocking higher after the pencil trick is definately a result of physical contact with the resistors by a hard object (in this case the tip of the pencil). These resistors are like sandwiches (tuckers for you mates Down Under). By writing on them, we are essentially compressing the resistor which in turn is changing its resistance value.

As for running stable or not, you should consider that NiMH 1800-2800 is good, but Alkalines are better at providing a stable voltage, and a wall adapter is best. Also, when it comes to recargeables, the quality varies widely even if you only use one brand. Remember, these things start wearing out as soon as you start using them.

You may all be interested in knowing that my GP32 (the oldest living pencil tricked unit) is still clocking stable at 204Mhz and has not decreased even surviving several potentialy disasterous drops (Yikes!)


The reason that the pencil trick works is because you are adding a conductive substance (graphite) decreasing resistance and increasing voltage. It is not because you are squeezing "sandwiches" together. If that were the case you could do the same thing with a pen ;)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Dude, you're way off base with your comment (look at the name on the first post to this topic). I'm not saying that squeezing is what makes this works. I'm offering an explanation for why the resistance values might change even after the graphite is removed. And further more, have you tried with a pen? :lol:
 
smd resistors are pretty fragile, but a few light pencil strokes won't do nothing to them :)

also, i've got 2x gp32's bolth clocked to 200mhz with this, and they've been going fine for months.

200mhz eats batteries though :) but you can get most megadrive games running perfect speed, no frameskip @ (60/60) with top sound rate :)
 
I have tried this many times and every time I try it I end up either having no improvement (still restarts at 160mhz) or it restarts whenever I try to run anything, which I assume means I put on too much. Am I doing something wrong or does my gp32_console NLU just suck?(which it does, by the way).
 
deadlychicken22 posted on Aug 11 2005 at 05:27 PM said:
I have tried this many times and every time I try it I end up either having no improvement (still restarts at 160mhz) or it restarts whenever I try to run anything, which I assume means I put on too much. Am I doing something wrong or does my gp32_console NLU just suck?(which it does, by the way).

Hi,

Did you try with graphite on both resistors, for myself it did not work when i putted grapghite only on R52.

Bye

Herc. :ph34r:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yay! It worked! Now it can go to 166mhz. Anything higher in DrMD and I immediatly get a black screen. Should I try more lead or will this just hurt it?
 
Back
Top