Perfect camera for Pyra/Pandora?


Pyra has the best camera, the lack thereof.

Or: You live thousands of km away from parents and siblings, and would find it awesome if someone finds a nice, small camera to carry with/in the Pyra. Opinions a just opinions, everyone is entitled to one, and the Pyra itself won't get a camera anyway, so people who actively don't want one can and should be happy.

And to those working on this: my sincere thanks. I have been looking around, but the webcams I found were either big or crappy. The RPi and specially the VoCore ones seem nice!
 
Or: You live thousands of km away from parents and siblings, and would find it awesome if someone finds a nice, small camera to carry with/in the Pyra. Opinions a just opinions, everyone is entitled to one, and the Pyra itself won't get a camera anyway, so people who actively don't want one can and should be happy.

And to those working on this: my sincere thanks. I have been looking around, but the webcams I found were either big or crappy. The RPi and specially the VoCore ones seem nice!
+1 I live away from my family and like to video chat. I also have to scan documents quite regularly and a camera is very convenient for that. Also at the end of a meeting or training, it can be useful to take a photo of the whiteboard to keep the notes archived. Many legitimate uses for a camera in such a device. At least we have a hygrometer included.
 
There seems to be a general failure in all of these camera conversations that pop up in failure to consider the 3rd dimension.

That pi camera is approximately 14x14x12mm. The actual outer lid to user facing glass depth of the Pyra -might- be 4-5mm.

That 'tiny' USB camera's lens that stands in front of the CMOS that stands in front of a board is 2.8mm, making the camera feature depth at least 4.5-5 mm. That would mean that it would be sticking through the glass and sitting roughly where the keys reside with the lid closed.

Even if there is/were/could be a pin breakout for the camera functioning to the OMAP5 SoC, there is no where within the current Pyra design to actually sink a camera.

There IS a way IF the lid were re-designed to have a 2cm deep side-car that would be to the left/right of the keyboard wen folded. Two of them would be good for 3D and the lid would look like ET.
 
I doubt a permanent fixture can be realized with the Pyra (without negatively impacting the portability). That ship has sailed. But an external plug-in (e.g. USB) or keychain camera is a realistic option.
 
I doubt a permanent fixture can be realized with the Pyra (without negatively impacting the portability). That ship has sailed. But an external plug-in (e.g. USB) or keychain camera is a realistic option.
I was thinking small with velcro. And the lightest thinest usb connector and cable.
 
While the OMAP5 has an Camera Interface, its not Exposed/Connected AFAIK. You would have to redesign the CPU Board.
hns said (in PM to me) with regard to adding CSI solder pads: "Adding 3 solder pads could be possible, but only if we have space near the connector."
Hopefully there's space...
 
I finally found the best camera :)

1: USB
2: Linux Support
3: Flat and no case (Can be hacked into the Lid)
4: Quite good specs on paper

Option 1
Option 2

Which one seems better to you?
 
On the Non-Modem Units you could even route the USB Cable internally and connect it to the USB Pads where the Modem would be. Or you do that USB-Hub Hack
 
On the Non-Modem Units you could even route the USB Cable internally and connect it to the USB Pads where the Modem would be. Or you do that USB-Hub Hack

You can even route the cables internally within the Modem Units.
The hub hack is a very nice option. But I do fear power drain when doing so.

I might try out a (self made) switch so I can use the USB-Port or the Camera. That will make sure I'll able to turn it off when not needed.
All I would have to do is to solder 4 wires to one USB port.
That way the USB-Port can still be connected directly to the PCB. Only drawback is I'll have to make sure the Camera cables are interrupted when I want to use the USB port.
As I suppose I don't need both USB-Ports when using the camera that solution might be best as it's battery friendly.
 
I finally found the best camera :)

1: USB
2: Linux Support
3: Flat and no case (Can be hacked into the Lid)
4: Quite good specs on paper

Option 1
Option 2

Which one seems better to you?

Mmm.... imho - both of those are too large. 28x28mm or larger. Although neither states it's Z axis dimension, each of them appears to be at least 1/3 as thick as they are in the XY dimensions. I.e. they're at least 10mm thick.

Most of the cameras like those are for industrial process control - i.e. assembly line process cameras. For those cases they tend not to worry what the overall thickness or even general dimensions are - to within reason.

To do what you and others seem to want to do, may I recommend looking at the camera parts in/from the Fairphone? In theory, this phone is supposed to be modular to enable end-user repair/replaceable. It's rear-facing 8MP camera is about as small as you're likely to find available anywhere.

In here it looks like it can't be much more than 10x10x4 mm in the XYZ dimensions respectively. AND it has a cable connector on it - meaning that the part, by itself, may be available through them?

https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Fairphone+1+Teardown/20527

Where their philosophy is relatively in-line with the Pyra as well - might be easier to get documentation from them on how their camera module works too.
 
Mmm.... imho - both of those are too large. 28x28mm or larger

Why is that too large?

Although neither states it's Z axis dimension, each of them appears to be at least 1/3 as thick as they are in the XY dimensions. I.e. they're at least 10mm thick
Did you see the pictures of Option 2 where a USB cable is attached? When I compare it to the USB-Plug it seems a lot less than 10mm.

Is the Fairphone camera USB? I want a plug and play solution I can use that I can use without specific software skills.

BTW: I don't mind when the camera does not fit 100% in the lid. As long as it fits into y pocket without getting damaged I'm fine.


EDIT: Here is an other one.
It's Z-axis dimension is 8mm.

I did forget that of course I would remove the white connector for the USB-Cable and solder the wired directly. You're right that it's too large to be reasonable with the connector attached.
 
Last edited:
This.

largestcamera.jpg
 
This eye-plug thing might fit ? (I can't read Chinese). No idea about drivers, though. It's not sold as a webcam.
I've seen it on cnx-software. They say it's 40$, low (VGA 0.3M) resolution, with a higher resolution USB type C follow-up in the works.

Maybe you could attach it directly (it may protude 30 mm, it's 39x20x13 mm with the plug cap on, maybe too much to leave it always there), then face it away from the screen and use the pyra screen as viewer , with the lid fully open so it is parallel to the camera. Or attach a cable an stick it to the lid, and it will turn to face the user or away. Or dissasemble it and do a full case mod or whatever?

And if you happen to have a fast phone with a camera you could use it for 3d video if it really works and you don't mind the likely proprietary software.

It's from taiwan, no idea about fair working conditions or conflict minerals or anything.
 
News from the Camera front.

I finally had time to order the camera I want to put inside the Pyra.

Good news:

1: Image Quality is OK. It's 5 MP and about as good as my Smartphone camera. Maybe not as good but no big difference.
2: It works out of the box on my Arch Linux with GTK+ UVC Viewer
3: It's tiny and will fit into the Pyra lid (Pictures are attached. They are bad quality but it's only for size comparison)

Further steps:
1: Making it smaller
Can you see the white connector for the USB-cable (see the Amazon Link for good quality). Without it it'll fit into the Pyra lid pretty well
I'll remove it and solder the wires directly onto the PCB

2: Prepare the USB-Cable
I want the wires to be inside the Pyra. Therefore I need to remove the USB-Port and solder the wires directly to the USB 2.0 Port of the Pyra.

3: Add a switch
As I don't want to sacrifice my USB-Port I want to add a switch for the power wire and put it somewhere where it fits.

If it all works out well I'll have a camera inside the Pyra Lid that is connected via internal wires and can be enabled/disabled via a hardware switch.
The USB-Port will be usable as long as the camera is not turned on.

An alternative to the power line switch would be to place a hub between the Camera and the USB-Port.
The Advantage would be that the Camera and USB-Port can be used at the same time.
The disadvantage would be that I have to put all those wires and Cables inside the Pyra and that the Hub will drain more power.
Especially the later issue is what I don't want.

My question is:
Will it work as I've planed it? Especially the USB-Port.
I want 3 wires to be soldered to the port without a switch and only the Power line to have it.
AFAIK connected lines are simply dead wires as long as the camera does not have power and there won't be any interference with an other USB-Device plugged into the port.

If anyone wants to port GTK+ UVC Viewer (Source is in the Link above) to the Pandora I would try the camera with the Pandora.


At least there is a good chance now to get a camera into the Pyra if you want to.
Maybe I'll even offer to do the Modification for anyone if it works out well :)
(As long as you pay for it of course :p)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20160927_112647.jpg
    IMG_20160927_112647.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 259
  • IMG_20160927_112709.jpg
    IMG_20160927_112709.jpg
    1,022.3 KB · Views: 257
Back
Top